Kassel finally gets the right mix at Whisknladle

LA JOLLA BISTRO OPENS AFTER 15-MONTH REMODEL

By Martha Christopherson | edible San Diego, Summer 2008

Photos courtesy of Whisnkladle

Arturo Kassel finally feels comfortable in his restaurant, Whisknladle, but it took a 15-month remodel and a new name to achieve his vision.  After buying Fresh from local restaurateur Sam Ladecki and renaming it Fresh[er] it still didn't feel fresh to Kassel.  "It was my restaurant but Sam's influence was still there," Kassel said.  "I wanted to create a space that represented me."

Kassel's pressed oxford shirt, blue jeans and mussy hair are reflective of Whisknladle's polished buy slightly rustic interior.  Barebulb lighting fixtures dangle above a concrete-slab bar with sleek, white-leather barstools and a wooden, barn door slides open to reveal a private dining room with stylish, black and white prints of culinary creations hanging on the walls.  The outdoor patio is an eclectic mix of leather couches, wrought-iron chairs and casual butcher block dining tables. 

Kassel and his business partner, Executive Chef Ryan Johnston, wanted to create a back-to-basics restaurant with an emphasis on high-quality, local ingredients in a fun, casual atmosphere.  Kassel's inspiration came from a friend who operated an undergound supper club named Whisk & Ladle from her New York City apartment.  Supper clubs are the brainchild of culinary hobbyists who have such a passion for food they convert garages, apartments and even barns into communal kitchens.  "It's an organic experience," explained Kassel.  "You can't stage it and that was the kind of authenticity I wanted for Whisknladle." 

Whisknladle serves only locally-grown, organic produce from La Milpa, Chino Farms and Crows Pass and everything on the menu is made in-house from the cured meats to the ice cream.  Johnston, a protege of Thomas Keller's from Bouchon and former executive chef at Blackhorse Grille, knows his wasy around a kitchen so Kassel stays out of his way.  "The kitchen is Ryan's domain," said Kassel.  "I went in there once and he handed me a spoon that had been resting on the cook top.  I could hear my skin sizzling."  Kassel admits their relationship is bit like the "Odd Couple" so they try to stay out of each other's way.

Johnston's menu reflects the authentic, organic experience Kassel wants for his patrons - artisan cheeses; Alaskan halibut with wild ramps and Meyer lemon relish; crispy sweetbreads with sprouts, lentils and bacon; roasted bone marrow with capers, lemon and parsley; lamb tongue ravioli.

Johnston may run the kitchen but Kassel is in charge of just about everything else including the wine list.  He studied at the American Sommelier Association and has put together a diverse wine list with selections from New Zealand, California, Oregon, Washington, Spain, France and Italy.

Kassel sees himself as part of the new guard, referring to the 20-and 30-somethings driving the food trends in San Diego.  Not only is this 27-year-old making a name for himself locally, he's hot on the international scene too.  After being open only three months, Kassel snagged a mention on the Conde Nast Traveler's Hot List Tables - an honor bestowed on only 105 restaurants worldwide each year.

1044 Wall Street, La Jolla 92037